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Cozy bistro warms up Armory

By Adam Duke
Posted: 1/15/04, 2:23 AM EST Section: Feature
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I collapsed on my bed Saturday evening after a long day of helping my friend move into his new Dellplain dorm room, not to mention moving myself back into Watson. The one thing on my mind was how much I was going to enjoy exploiting my buddy's father and his promise of a free dinner out on the town. After reveling in my moment of rest, I threw on a dress shirt and headed out the door. With everyone in the car, we were off to the quaint atmosphere of the 238 Bistro.

The Bistro is a hidden gem in the middle of Armory Square, tucked away in a back alley, far from the typical bar-hopping crowd. The restaurant is owned by the same people that run Lemongrass, a classy Thai-food place, and the two are connected by a small hallway. Those dining at the cozier Bistro can choose to order from the menu of either restaurant.

Although finding a parking spot in the below-zero weather was a daunting task, it was well worth it when we stepped into the warm surroundings of the restaurant. Watching people outside struggle through the harsh Syracuse winds made me feel warmer and more comfortable.

Our table ordered a medley of salads as starters. Mine, the braised beef salad, tasted like lettuce with a mound of lunch meat piled on top. The pear and port wine salad was an interesting combination and pulled off a desirable taste. The real winner was the tomato and fresh mozzarella dish, which was a simple yet successful combination of its title ingredients.

Barraged with an array of diverse entrées from multiple menus, we took our time with our main choices. My friend ordered the special - sliced filet mignon with crispy basil. It was simply delicious. His father chose the restaurant's self-proclaimed most-popular dish, the crispy duck served with a tasty orange sauce. The plate stayed true to its title and was much better than the duck dish I ordered, which was served with a peanut sauce and lined with an unappetizing amount of fat (which was not mentioned on the menu). Chicken pad thai was less satisfying, with noodles like rubber bands.

After a meal that had more ups and downs than a Lawrinson elevator, we were more than ready for dessert. We decided to split a trio of selections among us, beginning with a cup of burnt sugar ice cream. The unique dish proved more delicious than any of Baskin Robbins' 31 flavors. The sorbet basket, made of thin, intricately shaped cookies with several flavors of sorbet and fruit inside, would be a relaxing end to any meal. Last, the signature dessert, "The Lost Slipper."

"I don't even know where to begin," my friend said as the waiter served this dish.

The piece consisted of a chocolate wafer shoe resting on a chocolate heel filled with hazelnut mousse. Sorbet and raspberry cake topped with a chocolate truffle rested at the toe. If anything, order this dessert just so you can look at it - it's a work of art.



Adam Duke is a junior music history major.

E-mail him at abduke@syr.edu.

Additional reporting by Zach Feldman.
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