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Hold the cheese

Cheeburger Cheeburger fails to offer more than corny dining experience

By Mary Murphy
Posted: 11/18/09, 3:05 AM EST Section: Spice Rack
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Cheeburger Cheeburger
Location: 5362 W. Genesee St., Camillus
Price: Entrees from $4.99 to $10
Rate: 1 of 4 peppers

For a restaurant with the tagline "Big is Better," I expected everything about Cheeburger Cheeburger to be bigger and, well, a whole lot better.

The latest branch of the national burger chain opened mid-September in Camillus, about a 20-minute drive from campus. It is named after the "Saturday Night Live" skit featuring John Belushi as the Greek cook at a greasy spoon diner, whose famous exclamation sounded more like it would be spelled "cheezborger" than "cheeburger" (check Hulu if you don't believe me). Cheeburger Cheeburger now prides itself in its big burgers and customizable milkshakes, along with the restaurant's other classic diner-style fare.

While the burgers may be big, the Camillus location itself is tiny. Tucked into a small plaza across from a Super Wal-Mart, Cheeburger Cheeburger seats about 40 people. With its pink fluorescent lighting and faux-'50s decor, Cheeburger Cheeburger looks like the restaurant version of Barbie and Johnny Rockets' lovechild. But unlike the mall-staple Johnny Rockets, Cheeburger Cheeburger's interior is more gaudy hype than nostalgic kitsch, and it has the cardboard Elvis cutouts to prove it.

While the menu features wraps, salads, onion rings and fries, Cheeburger Cheeburger's burgers and milkshakes are the restaurant's obvious focus.

Milkshakes ($3.23 for half-size, $4.74 for full), are made with Edy's ice cream, and diners can choose from more than 60 far-out mix-ins to invent their own shakes and malts.

According to the menu, there are more than 378,000 possible combinations. While all of the ingredients sound delicious, some, logistically speaking, just have no place in a milkshake. Case in point: Have you ever tried sucking a macadamia nut through a straw?

The burgers range in price from $4.99 for the 5.5-ounce "Classic" to $9.99 for the 20-ounce "Famous Pounder," with 7- and 10-ounce options in between.
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